All of the above could still have some time left on the warranties, and you should find this out. Call the respective companies to see if the warranties are transferable. It is also possible that the previous owners had purchased extended warranties. If so, and you can ascertain where the paperwork is, check to see if those are transferable. As before, each company will have to be contacted individually. Should you discover any of the warranties are transferable, ask to have that information sent to you in writing.

Roofing materials come with 10 to 30 year manufacturer's material warranties. These warranties are usually honored on a pro-rated basis. This means that, should you discover a material defect in the product itself, and the expected longevity (warranty period) of the roof is 30 years, the material replacement price will be amortized over the 30-year period, and you will be reimbursed for the life expectancy the roof should have had, minus the number of years it had already been in use.

Poor workmanship in installation of a roof will most often show up within the first rainy season. Should roofing material have been replaced by the former owner in the recent past, re-roofing should be reported to you, and warranties from either the manufacturer of the product and /or the contractor that installed the product, should be made available to you.

Central air conditioning equipment comes with a variety of warranties. Some components are warranted for one year, while compressors may be warranted for up to five years. These warranties are in effect from the date of installation, so check the installed date on any paperwork available. The previous owner may have had the system installed long after the house itself was installed. In any event, remember that the warranty on an item such as this does not start from the date of house delivery, it starts from the date of installation. Depending on on-site scheduling, the installation of the A/C unit could have been two to three months after house delivery. This extends the end of warranty date past what most people feel is their time limit.

Siding warranties are common from their respective manufacturer, i.e.: Masonite, Cladwood, etc. Any reports to the manufacturer regarding inferior siding products should first be completely investigated by you or a contractor. Siding warranties can become void for a number of reasons. If standing water is discovered, or signs that standing water has been under the home, warranties can be voided. Should regular maintenance, such as painting, and caulking joints, seams, and butt ends, not be apparent, the warranty could be void. Be sure that the problem you are having is not related to moisture intrusion into the product, due to negligence before it is reported.

Standing water or moisture under a home can create problems of its own. First, as stated above, siding warranties can become void. In addition, sub-floor material warranties can be voided. Mold, mildew and dry rot can occur in many areas, especially if the home is perimeter blocked, with a wood-type skirting material.

Piers which are installed on pressure-treated wood pads, and placed directly on soil under the home, can shift and /or sink, which will necessitate re-leveling of the home. Metal piers will rust, and become structurally unsound over time. An inspection by any building department official can result in a mandate to change the piers out, if they contain too much rust. Pressure-treated wood pads will withstand certain amounts of exposure to water, but too much will certainly destroy or weaken them.

Should water or excessive moisture be discovered under the home, check for leaks in water supply lines and drain lines first. If not found, move on to exterior sources, such as yard drains, sprinkler lines, or main feed utility lines. Visible moisture or signs of past moisture, on the inside walls of the perimeter foundation, can imply water intrusion through the wall itself, indicating inadequate or damaged water sealant on the outside of the foundation walls.

Hot water heater relief valve and drain line outlets are sometimes left to pour out under a home. Air conditioning condensation lines are also often left to drain under the house. These lines can emit large amounts of water at certain times, and should also be checked to see if they are the problem. A central air conditioning unit, on a hot and humid summer day, can dump up to three gallons of water an hour under you home!

If all efforts fail to locate a leak, or any other source of water under a home, there may be a high water table in the area, depending on the time of year. Location of the home can also accentuate this problem. For instance, placing the home at the toe of a hillside slope which contains underground water run-off, leads to the possibility of the water from inside the hill, finding its way under the house. The water can build up inside the hill (hydrostatic pressure), work its way under the foundations of the home, and up into the open crawl space.

This effect is not uncommon in many site-built homes. Do not think it is inherent in Manufactured Homes only, or that the installation was faulty, in not recognizing the potential for problem. The hillside may only carry excessive amounts of water during severe rain conditions over a period of time. Conditions could also change in rock strata, due to earthquakes, earth movement and settlement. Such movement can change the underground flow of water within a hill, forcing it to take a different route. If all efforts fail to mitigate infiltration of the water, the solution could be a submersible sump pump.

The placement of a submersible pump is critical. The location should be chosen to alleviate both underground water intrusion, and standing surface water. There may not be standing surface water now, but if there is an underlying problem with moisture coming from below the footings, there is also a very good chance there may be some surface water in the future. Expediency dictates the installation cover all potential problems. If you are going to spend the time and money, make it worth your while.

All manufactured homes must have an access to the underside. This access can be in the form of either a basement or a crawlspace.

• Basement:

In the case of a basement, a sump pump should already have been installed in the original home installation, and was probably required by the permitting agency and engineering. If you are installing a new home with a basement, be sure to check for the pump requirement and inclusion in the installation costs. If you are purchasing a previously owned home with an existing basement, and discover no pump, question the seller about it.

One acceptable answer could be that the basement floor is above the outlet end of a leach or catch-basin drainage system. this system would have to drain to a point lower than the bottom of the catch basin with positive flow, and be sure that the water exiting the pipe would not flow back over or underground to the basement area, once removed.

Should this happen, consider installing a pump to work in conjunction with the existing system, but exiting through a separate drain line. If for any reason, the gravity-induced drainage system clogs, crushes, or in any way backs up and fails, the sump pump system will take over as a back-up to remove the water, before any damage can be done. This might also be another negotiating point on purchase and / or sale of a home. A Home Inspector should pick this up on their report, and suggest the installation as well.

• Crawlspace:

A Crawlspace is just what you would expect by the sound of it: an area under the home with just enough room to maneuver by crawling around. The dimensions of these spaces from the bottom of home to ground, are regulated by both the permitting agency, and in some cases, the manufacturer of a particular sub-floor product. Usually this dimension is a minimum of 18 inches. In addition, requirements may stipulate the installation of a visqueen (plastic) membrane vapor-barrier over the entire surface. This would mitigate moisture permeation of the underside of the home should there be a break in the belly pan material.

Access to a crawlspace is most often attained by an access hole. The dimensions of the hole will be regulated by the permitting agency. The hole is usually square or rectangular in shape, and topped off with a removable weather-proof cover. The grading of the ground under the home should have been done in a manner that allows the water to drain underneath to a central location. This location could be a static drain pipe, which runs under the footings, or out through the perimeter wall. It could also be to a catch basin, designed within the crawlspace earthen-floor. In any case, the sump pump should be placed in the location the water is drained to, which is the lowest point.

A pit should be excavated at this location. A vertical, perforated pipe of adequate diameter to allow insertion of the pump should be placed into the pit. A gravel base should then be placed at the bottom, and all around the outside of the pipe. The outlet pipe from the pump must be located in such a manner, so as to transport the water an adequate distance from the home's foundation. You may find upon purchase of a home, that the contractor has provided you with a gravel pit already, making installation of a pump much easier.

The belly pan material should also be inspected for any tears, or missing pieces. All underside components of a home are to some degree susceptible to moisture damage. This damaged or missing belly pan material, allows moisture to penetrate to many areas not designed to tolerate moisture, i.e.:sub-floor material, floor joists, etc. Further unforeseen damage may be the resultant by-product of this under-house moisture.

Homes should have a plastic (visqueen) membrane installed directly on top of the soil, under the piers or pier pads. All seams in this plastic should be sealed, to prevent moisture penetration from the ground below. This barrier is only a means to keep sub-surface moisture from continually attacking the underside of the home. It will not keep underground water from seeping up, unless it has been specially designed and installed for that purpose. Very few barriers are designed for that contingency, as sump pumps are available to mitigate larger amounts of water.

The following is a list similar to the one in "Getting an inspection from an expert in Manufactured Homes", mentioned previously. There are also specific items added to this list. In the final analysis, your own inspection is of paramount importance in making the decision to buy or not buy a home. Once you have agreed to the condition of the home and taken possession, it is most likely too late to point out problems. Most potential home buyers do not know where to begin to look. This list will give you a start.

You may not be successful in having all of the potential problems taken care of by the seller, but for your peace of mind, as well as for your pocket-book, you should at least try. The home inspection, which was conducted by a professional, should cover the major items. However, many are overlooked, since they are considered by the home inspector to be cosmetic. You must decide if they are something you can live with, when buying a previously owned home.

Utilities are often overlooked in the purchase of a home, especially if the home is located within a closed community or park facility. In many cases, the utilities are not included in your space rent, or lease payment. The question arises, however, as to whom you pay these items to. Some park owners collect the utility fees with the rent payment, making it more convenient to pay bills at the same time. This should be discovered at the time of purchase, so you won't get any surprises.

Ask to see copies of previous month's utility billings, so you will get an idea of the annual cost of services. Remember, the size and age group of each family affects utility consumption, so it may vary greatly between the previous owner and you.

• Are you on public water service or well?
• What company is the water agency?
• What company supplies electricity?
• What company supplies natural gas?
• If on propane:

What company supplies propane?

NOTE: You do not have to remain with the same propane supplier the previous owner contracted with. The Propane tanks are either owned by you or rented on a yearly basis from the propane supplier. Should you discover there is more than one supplier in your area, shop around for price and service.

They should offer both regular scheduled tank filling and on- call service. The rental tank will have to be replaced with the new supplier's tank, if you change over services.

As of 1997 in many areas, the Fire Marshal will be enforcing a new ordinance. This ordinance is on the way to being adopted by every area in the country. It requires that propane tanks over a certain size, be mechanically strapped down with stainless steel bands and ground auger bits. The regulation will require propane suppliers to install the holdowns, but some may pass the installation cost on to the homeowner.

These straps are designed for seismic considerations and flood. They are engineered to keep the tank from breaking free and floating during flood conditions.

• Are you on sewer or septic tank?
• If on sewer:

Who is the appropriate agency?

• If on septic:

How old is the system?

Is there a leach-bed system?

How large is the septic tank?

How often does it need pumping? (Family size etc. affects the amount of usage.)

Who is usually used to pump, and what is the charge? (Ask to see the bill.)

When was the last time the tank was pumped? (Ask to see the bill.)

Where is the tank and /or system located on the property?

Where is the tank access?

Have there been any problems with line damage or root intrusion?

Are there any old abandoned tanks underground, and is there access to them? (You don't want your kids to find them by accident!)

Is sewer available to the property?

If so, why is it not connected? (Hook-up costs will keep some owners from connecting.)

If sewer is not available, do they know when it might be coming, if ever?

Have they been notified of future sewer hook-up and mandatory attachment to the system? (This would force you to incur additional costs in the near future.)

• How are you billed? monthly? bi-monthly? bi-annually?
• Who reads the meters? Is it the agency supplying the services, park personnel, or the billing company?
• To whom do you bring questions and complaints about billings or services?
• What company supplies cable in your area?
• What telephone service is currently available?
• How many lines are available now?

(Some older communities and locations, in parks and outside of them, are still relegated to a certain number of lines for each house, due to insufficient phone line installation originally. This is also true for regular stick-built homes, and is not specifically a manufactured home problem. With today's fax lines, computer lines, dedicated lines, home-based businesses, etc., this could create a problem. Don't get caught short.)

Master plan          [TOP MENU]

Most communities have devised and mapped out what is called a Master Plan, for at least some of the area. Checking with the Planning Commission, Chamber of Commerce, or Zoning department in your locale, can shed some light on the future development of your area. For example: it would be nice to know that the home you are considering is not in the path of a future highway redevelopment program, or freeway off-ramp.

Likewise, you can discover any plans for re-zoning of your property, or the properties near you. If purchasing a home close to an area that is ear-marked for re-zoning to manufacturing (for instance), bothers you, now is the time to find out. How about a proposed airport with the landing pattern close by? Do your homework.

Information about large residential tracts and development plans for commercial projects can be uncovered. These may add to traffic congestion, construction traffic, dust, and noise, for a period of time, that you may not wish to contend with. This information is something you will have to extract on your own. Do not rely solely on your Realtor or the seller to provide all the information you need. Doing some of the leg-work yourself, may also give you some idea as to the way the local government works, as well as the possible steps necessary to get things accomplished at some point in the future.

Dedicated areas           [TOP MENU]

Easements:

On some properties, certain agencies, (and sometimes private parties), can have an interest in the land, permitting them to make specific use of it. For instance, some easements are granted to public utilities, for installation and maintenance of power poles. An easement may be created by an express grant in a deed or contract. Your Realtorshould be able to give you this information.

Restrictive Covenants: A limitation put into a deed forbidding future owners of the property from using the land for a specific purpose.